Castles in the Sand
Essaouira’s Hidden Gem for Unique Stays and Productions
Discovering Castles in the Sand: Unique Stays in Essaouira
If I say Castles Made of Sand, you probably think of Jimi Hendrix. But from now on, with a name inspired by that song, you’ll also recognize a company that manages unique stays in and around Essaouira. Castles in the Sand, run by Emma, is one of those gems that, once you discover it, immediately makes it onto your favorites list.
I love meeting people like Emma. From our very first conversation, her energy and warmth were undeniable—even from a distance. I first came across her spaces one summer while browsing the internet, and I instantly knew I had to stay in one of them. And I did.
In this article, I’ll tell you about Dar Beida and Dar Emma, two of the Castles in the Sand properties where I’ve stayed during my trips to Essaouira. I’ll also introduce you to Emma and share a little bit about her journey and the special approach she brings to managing these spaces.
All photos in this article are © Castles in the Sand and mine.
Dar Beida: A Timeless Gem in Essaouira
When I first discovered Essaouira, Dar Beida was the house that welcomed me. It was the first place I stayed, and from the moment I stepped inside, I felt its unique energy.
More than 20 years ago, Emma moved to Essaouira with her partner, and together they bought an 18th-century house. With patience, passion, and an eye for design, they restored it, filling it with treasures collected from their travels and from a furniture store they once owned in London.
Dar Beida is like a living museum, a dream for those who love interior design. Every corner is curated with African decor, Moroccan antiques, striking masks, paintings, carpets, handcrafted pieces, and vintage furniture from the ‘60s and ‘70s. The result is a space brimming with character—a house that doesn’t just shelter you but tells a story from the moment you walk through its doors.
Dar Beida: A Hidden Haven in the Heart of Essaouira
Let’s start at the top. Dar Beida is a four-story house built around a central courtyard, rented exclusively and fully equipped to host up to eight people in its four bedrooms.
You already know how much I love rooftops and terraces, and the ones at Dar Beida are pure magic. Watching the sun rise and set from up there was one of my favorite moments. Essaouira has a much more relaxed vibe than other cities in Morocco, and from these terraces, all you hear are seagulls—the atmosphere is truly special. It’s one of those places where you might find yourself so comfortable that stepping outside feels unnecessary.
But when you do, you’ll find yourself in one of the most authentic corners of Essaouira. Dar Beida sits in the most Moroccan neighborhood of the medina, just steps away from vibrant local street food markets and near Bab Doukkala, one of the city’s historic gates. Wander through the maze of narrow streets beyond the main market road—you never know what hidden gems you’ll stumble upon.
A House Full of Stories and Character
At the very top of Dar Beida, there’s a bedroom with a large window opening onto a private terrace. Like many rooms in the house, it features a stunning thuya wood ceiling, adding warmth and character. This space is perfect for a couple looking for privacy and a special corner to enjoy Essaouira’s serene atmosphere.
Just below, surrounding the main terrace, you’ll find two more bedrooms. One is ideal for children, with a bed tucked up a small flight of stairs, while the other is a cozy double room. Both have fireplaces, creating a warm and inviting ambiance. Between them, there’s a shared bathroom with a walk-in shower.
The Heart of the House
Descending the beautiful staircase, you reach a floor that became one of my favorite areas of Dar Beida. At the back, there’s a dining area with an open kitchen, perfect for gathering around and enjoying slow mornings or late-night conversations. To the left, a spacious living room awaits, complete with two fireplaces, a library, a stereo, and board games—everything you need to unwind after a day exploring Essaouira. On the right, there’s another wonderful bathroom and a bedroom with a cozy blend of Ibizan and African influences. This floor quickly became my base of operations, where I’d sit and share my Essaouira adventures on Instagram.
A Collector’s Dream
Walking into this space for the first time, I was mesmerized by the details. White walls adorned with African masks, striking lamps casting beautiful shadows, a delicate birdcage under a skylight, animal skulls and hides, and those fantastic fireplaces that make the house feel even more special. Moroccan craftsmanship and designer furniture coexist effortlessly, creating a one-of-a-kind atmosphere. No wonder The New York Times once described Dar Beida as a resplendent cavern of pop art.
The Welcoming Universe
As you continue down the stunning staircase that winds through the house, you finally reach the entrance—a space that feels like a mix between a museum and a cozy chill-out corner. With a beautiful bookcase, carefully curated objects, and design pieces that spark admiration, this room sets the tone for what awaits inside. It’s the first glimpse into the unique world of Dar Beida, though in this article, we’ve explored it in reverse—from the rooftop down to where it all begins.
A Home with Soul and a Host Like No Other
This house is full of personality, and staying here is an experience in itself. I couldn’t recommend it more as the perfect complement to an authentic Essaouira adventure. Beyond being a beautifully designed, artistic boutique stay, Dar Beida offers something more—Emma has crafted a truly memorable getaway, curating experiences that immerse you in the local culture.
Emma goes above and beyond for her guests, always available to ensure they have an unforgettable stay. Her motto, “no ordinary holiday,” is more than just words. If you’re up for it, she’ll take you on an insider’s tour of the medina, revealing all its hidden gems. With over 20 years in Essaouira, her recommendations are gold—from the best local markets and vibrant restaurants to secret, luxurious pools and the city’s most tranquil spots. She offers a personalized concierge service, making sure your time in Essaouira is nothing short of extraordinary.
Dar Emma: A Cozy, Family-Friendly Retreat in Essaouira Medina
When Emma and her partner bought Dar Beida, they had already renovated Dar Emma, which became the home I stayed in on my second visit to Essaouira. Dar Emma is a special place, full of character, located at the heart of Essaouira’s Old Medina. This charming 2-bedroom house captures the essence of local life, offering a relaxed atmosphere perfect for a family or small group.
The house is just a short walk from the main square, Place Moulay Hassan, and only a 10-minute stroll to Essaouira’s beautiful beach. Its traditional style features thick stone walls, original patterned tiles, and a blend of modern 1960s furnishings with Moroccan artifacts. Staying at Dar Emma gives you a real sense of Essaouira’s authentic vibe, where you’ll find yourself surrounded by welcoming Moroccan families.
The house is cozy yet spacious, laid out over 4 floors, providing privacy and comfort for up to 4 people.
Also for Shoots and Productions
Emma offers her spaces for photo shoots and film productions, providing full support with all the logistics you need in Essaouira and its surroundings. Her expertise in the area ensures a smooth and professional experience for all types of productions.
Emma's Challenges in Morocco: A Vision Takes Shape
When Emma first embarked on her project, one of the biggest challenges she faced was finding skilled masons who understood the intricacies of renovation. Back then, renovations in Morocco were simpler, and the concept she envisioned was pioneering, making it difficult to find experienced craftsmen. Despite these challenges, Emma’s vision pushed her forward.
When I asked Emma what she liked most and least about living in Morocco, she shared that the generosity of the people and their simplicity was what she admired the most. Despite having so little, the people of Morocco live with such joy. She believes there’s a valuable lesson for us all in this way of life.
One thing Emma doesn’t like is the frequent use of “inshalla” (or “God willing”), which you hear often in Morocco. She finds it frustrating because it seems to imply that things will only happen if God wills it, even if they are already planned or arranged.
A New Life in Essaouira: Less is More
Emma explained that living in Essaouira gave her something no other place could—time to breathe and reflect. Unlike the fast-paced, work-driven world in the West, Essaouira offered her the space to reconnect with what truly matters. She believes the more we accumulate, the more complicated and stressful our lives become, leading her to adopt the philosophy: less is more.
Emma’s business grew organically when she started spending more time in Essaouira. After purchasing Dar Emma, she initially rented it out while continuing her flower stall business in London. Over time, Emma and her partner Graham bought Dar Beida, a historical house they took on the challenge of renovating. This project quickly attracted attention from both the press and interior design publications. Despite missing the art and culture of London at times, Emma finds living in the sun has undeniable advantages.
Emma’s passion for her work shines through from the moment you meet her. She genuinely loves sharing the magical experiences Essaouira offers to her guests. For Emma, her work is more than just business—it’s about purpose. She sees her efforts as a social contribution, ensuring each guest has an extraordinary and authentic stay.
Life in Essaouira: A Lifestyle of Peace and Fulfillment
Emma lives in Sidi Kaouki with her partner, their son Kai, and their animals. Despite her work consuming much of her time, she is supported by her family, especially Kai, who has grown up immersed in the area’s natural beauty. Surrounded by secluded beaches and an unspoiled lifestyle, Emma finds this way of living both healthy and fulfilling.
While acknowledging the challenges of bureaucracy and corruption in Morocco, the warmth of the people, the sunshine, and the peaceful pace of life continue to energize her. For Emma, Essaouira is not just a place—it’s a lifestyle. It’s a way of life she’s proud to share with her guests, one that reflects the tranquility and fulfillment she has found in this unique corner of the world.
More Unique Stays in Morocco
That’s all for today. I hope you liked my recommendation, and as always, you can find my daily quality content on Instagram.
This article is part of my personal guide to unique stays in Morocco. You can find all the places I’ve stayed here.
I’m also working on a curated guide to unique locations in Morocco—more details coming soon!
Until the next post, you can follow my daily updates on Instagram.